Posted by
China mobile phone on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 12:58:57 AM
Ah, the charm of a small city! There are many cities this size in
China, but many are nondescript and do not possess distinctive
features. Yixing, in East China’s Jiangsu Province, suffers from the
opposite headache: It has so many resources it can use to promote
tourism and it is sometimes at a loss what to highlight.
For most Chinese, Yixing is synonymous with
zisha teapots, the dark brown, unglazed and small-sized ware pop-ular among tea aficionados. “Zisha” literally means “
purple clay“, which is the raw material for the namesake pottery and is available only in the Yixing vicinity.
You don’t have to like tea to enjoy Yixing, though, and you don’t have
to splurge thousands of yuan on a pot to pour tea from. As a matter of
fact,
zisha teapots
have evolved from mainly functional to predominantly decorative or even
artistic, and the really unique ones have become collector’s items and
indeed are pricey.
A walk down the main street in Dingshu, a small town in the southern suburb of Yixing, is like a journey into a
zi-sha pottery
paradise. There are 1,000-plus workshops in this “capital of pottery”,
employing some 30,000 people. Here, pottery-making goes back 7,000
years and the current kind of zisha ware first appeared in the Song
Dynasty (960-1279).
It is all made possible by the special
zisha clay endowed by Mother Nature. “You can imitate our craftsmanship, but you cannot reproduce the clay,” says one
zisha maker.
The preparation of the clay and the sculpting has remained the same
throughout centuries, but there is only one kiln still in working
condition.
Called “dragon kiln”, it goes up a slope, with evenly placed holes on
both sides of a hump, that resemble the scales of a dragon. However,
kilns require special firewood and can be polluting. They have been
replaced by electric stoves, which make it easier to control the
temperature and yield better-quality ware, and lessen the burden on
labor and the environment.
Teapots go with tea, and
Yixing tea
is a hidden secret. It is around here that Lu Yu (AD 733-804) of the
Tang Dy-nasty (AD 618-907) wrote his Tea Bible. Yet, a statue of Lu
stands forlornly by the roadside, in front of a vast rolling meadow of
tea shrubbery.
“Though accounting for 40 percent of tea production in Jiangsu
Province, Yixing tea does not figure prominently in the local
economy,” says a guide.
Even when you totally ignore the tea and teapot, Yixing is a wonderful
weekend getaway for busy city slickers. It is situated on the
northwest side of Taihu Lake, roughly at the center of a radius that
links Nanjing, Wuxi, Suzhou, of Jiangsu Province, Shanghai, and
Hangzhou of Zhejiang Province, one of the economic hotspots in the
nation.
According to the Chinese, water adds sparkle to a place. In addition to
being upstream of the famous lake, Yixing has three expanses of water
so unique that a special word was coined to describe it. “Jiu” refers
to something smaller than a lake but larger than a river.
A 4.5-sq-km jiu has been turned into the diamond of a downtown park.
Residents stroll around the meticulously landscaped gardens, exquisite
pavilions and across a dozen singularly shaped bridges. And at night
buildings along the lake are tastefully lit, exuding an aura of
fairyland.
This is not the only mammoth urban park. The other two lagoons are also
being developed. The 5.5-sq-km Dragon Ridge Forest Park offers a
perfect combination of natural habitat, multiple museums and a
playground, with a newly rebuilt 108m pagoda to boot.
As the old saying goes, kind people prefer mountains and wise ones
adore water. Yixing has both. Its mountains are covered with bamboo
forests and conceal caves of rock formations. Shanjuan, the best known
of the 80-something caves, has cavernous halls which look like a giant
movie set.
It is rare for a place of 2,000 sq km and 1 million people, including
suburbs, to have so much delight for both resi-dents and visitors. The
capital of pottery, the town on waterways, home to southern elegance,
the birthplace of thou-sands of the nation’s top educators Above all,
it offers poetic tranquility tucked away, yet so close to the
boisterous boomtowns of the Yangtze River Delta.